Tour de France Viewing in Person - What to Expect (Part 1)

What does an HC (hors categorie, or "out ofon race days, and most of the people who are on the
category") or even a Category 1 orside of the road at the top have been camping there
Category 2 climb feel like? Can I do it, or would I needfor several days or have hiked miles to see the finish.
to get off and walk? How much of the Tour deThey are only in a position to see one stage, so for
France will I get to see if I go there on an organizedorganized tours that wish to view several stages in
tour? These are just several of the many questionssuccession, this situation is not an option. If one is
cyclists ask while they are contemplating a trip tofortunate enough to see a time trial stage, the whole
France to see the Tour.problem is alleviated. Riders pass by one at a time
Experiencing the Tour de France in person can be thethroughout the day, so the "vanishing peleton" problem
fulfillment of a lifetime dream for many cyclists. Seeingis not an issue in that case.
the colorful peleton swoosh by, riding the famousThe French Police
mountains like the Alp d'Huez or Col du Galibier in theThe French police, called gendarmes, provide security
Alps, for example, are dreams for many cyclists, bothalong the race routes, and they can be very arbitrary.
avid riders and weekenders. Watching the Tour onThe roads upon which the Tour is held will be closed
OLN is not like being there, however, and those whoby the police sometime before the Sponsor's Caravan
have the right expectations will get the most for theirarrives. This colorful parade of vehicles precedes the
time and their money.riders typically by an hour, and samples of various
How Much Will I See?products are tossed from the vehicles to the
One must first realize that being at the side of thespectators. Most of the gendarmes are tolerant of the
road for the Tour is not the same as watching stagestourists who ride bikes along the Tour race route
on TV. Television has great advantages, of course,before the peleton arrives. Sometimes, however, if one
due to the cameras mounted on motorcycles andis riding a bike on the Tour route for the day, a
helicopters which follow the riders. In that way one cangendarme might be strict and will tell that person he
follow the progress of specific riders for several hours.cannot ride on the road any longer because it is
When one is at the Tour in person, however, theclosed. The best course of action is to get off the bike,
peleton goes by quickly, and many novices seemwalk along until the gendarme is no longer in view, and
almost perplexed by the obvious. Some say things likethen take off riding again to get to where you want to
"Gee, that was fast. I didn't get to see much at all." Andgo. This technique isn't always foolproof, however.
this is true if the location one watches from is on a flatOn one stage of the 2005 Tour de France our guests
area early in the day's race. Even if there is awere riding on the Tour route, and they returned rather
breakaway by then, one would see only the smallquickly saying that a gendarme would not let them
group of escapees and then the peleton zoom bycontinue on the road. I later rode my bike in the same
probably just a few minutes later.direction they did in order to investigate. I passed quite
View the Action At Climbsa number of gendarmes along the way, and all they
The best way to combat this problem is to viewdid was to tell me to stay well to the side and be
stages at climbs. Getting to the route hours before thecareful. At about 10 kilometers from the finish line a
riders arrive, one can ride a favorite climb, like the Colgendarme stopped me and asked where I came from.
du Tourmalet in the Pyrenees or the Alp d'Huez, forI told him "the United States". Somewhat exasperated,
example. Expert cyclists can ride the whole climb, buthe sputtered, "no, how far have you been riding on the
novices need only ride a portion so that they can get aroad, it's closed!" I said I came from kilometer 3 and
taste of what it is like for the pros. They can also pickpassed many gendarmes, none of them stopped me
out a good viewing spot, although organized tours mayand all just told me to be careful. He said "well, they
stake out a spot for their group. Some of the bestare not doing their jobs, but I'm doing mine!"
spots are found after climbing several switchbacksThis was the archetypical Frenchman, king of his little
and locating yourself where you can look down the hillplot of turf. He made me go off on a side road for
and see the riders approaching from below. They willawhile before finding the Tour road again closer to our
take a while to reach you, and since the peleton isviewing position. Fortunately the vast majority of
often spread out on the climbs, your viewing time willgendarmes are more reasonable than this person, but
be much longer, perhaps even 20-30 minutes on somethey are responsible for public safety and are doing a
stages. You will get a better look at the individual ridersbalancing act between that and letting the tourists
as well, as they obviously move slower on theenjoy themselves. Of course when the Sponsor's
upslopes. The frenzied mountain top finishes one seesCaravan arrives, one has no choice but to stop, as the
on TV can also be misleading for first time Tourvehicles zip by quickly and are somewhat reckless at
viewers. Many of these locations are not accessibletimes.